Thirty-six years ago to this day, on the night of November 9, 1989, I fell asleep, unaware that the world would be transformed upon my waking. The fall of the Berlin Wall was a watershed event, and though time has passed, the memories of the Cold War remain vivid. Born in Magdeburg and raised in a divided country, I wanted to mark my 50th birthday with a special journey: cycling a section of the former inner-German border, now known as "Das Grüne Band" (The Green Belt), a nature conservation project.
This summer, along with three friends from Magdeburg, we set off to explore a part of the 1,400 kilometres of this border. Our goal was to cycle the section of the former Magdeburg district, rich in personal connections for me.
The Route: Between History and Nature
The starting point was planned for Seehausen, near Lake Arendsee, the location of my compulsory military camp in 1989 (every ninth grader in East Germany had to go through it). Further south, the route passed near Harbke, the village of my grandparents where I spent my childhood (accessible only with a permit at the time). The highlight was meant to be the Brocken, the highest peak of the Harz mountains, which I had always seen from afar but never reached.
The plan was ambitious: 360 km in three days, primarily on the former military patrol road, the "Kolonnenweg," whose condition were still a mystery to us.
Day 1: The Harsh Reality of the Kolonnenweg (Arendsee to Kunrau)
102.6 km | 405 m D+ | 5h 20min of cycling
The Kolonnenweg, made of pitted concrete slabs, quickly proved to be extremely difficult. A torn tire flanc after 20 km forced us to detour to a bike shop in Salzwedel. The rest was no easier: forest paths lined with electric fences, another puncture, and a broken chain. In the rain, we decided to leave the Kolonnenweg to ensure reaching our camp for the night.
We found an ideal campsite at the Kunrau outdoor swimming pool, complete with hot showers and a covered terrace. If you’re ever cycling around Germany and you’re looking for a place to camp with all facilities, check with outdoor swimming pools!.
The first day confirmed that the Kolonnenweg would be a real challenge; an alternative for the next day was necessary.
Day 2: Historical Immersion (Kunrau to Schladen)
135.7 km | 600 m D+ | 6h 32min of cycling
Despite an involuntary early start, thanks to a highly motivated rooster, we headed back towards the border track. The educational trail at the Böckwitz museum allowed us to visualize the evolution of the border barriers. After the Drömling nature reserve, impassable by bike, and crossing the Mittelland Canal, we opted for a gravel route mapped by Komoot, smoother but still close to our initial path.
This decision was the right one, allowing us to alternate between the Kolonnenweg and pleasant cycle paths while visiting memorial sites:
Marienborn German Division Memorial: Located at the largest GDR border crossing. A place steeped in history, as it was here that I crossed for the first time just two days after the Wall fell, at the age of 16.
Harbke: Passing in front of my grandparents' former house. The shed built by my Grandpa in the 60s was still standing.
Hötensleben Border Monument: The best-preserved testimony to the GDR fortifications over 350 metres (walls, fences, Kolonnenweg, watchtowers). The emotion is palpable in front of these installations.
In the evening, after passing the Schöningen mine and the beautiful half-timbered town of Hornburg, we reached Schladen, our westernmost bivouac point in Saxony-Anhalt. This day provided an opportunity for reflections on division, the importance of borders, and the privilege of seeing these separations fade.
Day 3: The Brocken Grand Finale (Schladen to Wernigerode)
67 km | 1,307 m D+ | 4h 12min of cycling
The last day reserved the biggest athletic challenge: the ascent of the Brocken via its western slope. After a pleasant start on forest roads to Ilsenburg with some freshly baked cake for breakfast, we tackled the 900 metres of elevation gain over 13 km. The last 3 kilometres, with gradients up to 26%, forced us to push. Exhausted, we reached the summit at 1,142 metres at 2 p.m.
The Brocken, from far resembling more a rocket launch base, was a former listening post in the forbidden zone. It is now a symbol of the end of division and a unique biotope. A quick descent to Schierke, just in time to catch the train in heavy rain, concluded this short but intense adventure.
The Gear: Proven and Tested Bikepacking Equipment
The Bike
My custom build for these kind of occasions, a Columbus XCR stainless steel frame with a Ritchey Adventure carbon fork, held up perfectly. Equipped with Velocity Blunt SS 27.5" rims and Rene Herse Umtanum Ridge extralight 55mm tires, it absorbed the shocks and vibrations of the concrete slabs very well. The Son 28 dynamo hub powered a Forumslader charger to keep the phone charged. The Sram Force 1x11 drivetrain (34 teeth at the front, 10-42 at the rear) proved sufficient even with luggage. The TimTas X-pac bags and the minimalist "U-Loop" rack were impeccable. I would do the trip on this bike any time again. I showed the same bike with some modifications at Bespoked in Dresden.
Camping Equipment
I travelled with the cyclon.cc bikepacking tent, designed with a friend. It uses the bike as a support structure, saving weight and protecting the bike. The rest of the equipment: sleeping bag (comfort 10°C), Therm-a-Rest NeoAir Xtherm NXT mattress, and Jetboil stove and the usual stuff that get you through a wet German summer.
Conclusion: A Landmark Journey
Can the Green Belt be recommended for bikepacking? The entire Kolonnenweg is not ideal. However, the adjacent paths allow for a fascinating exploration of the places marked by the border. This trip is much more than a bike ride; it is a confrontation with my personal history, that of our country, and proof of nature's resilience. The Green Belt is the powerful symbol that separation can turn into connection, a lesson more relevant than ever.
Why travel far when the adventure is just around the corner. And on top of that one that offers new perspectives on our own stories.
